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What do i need to set up a 100 gallon aquarium?

Apr 05, 2009 by Ebony | Posted in Fish

I am buying a 100 gallon aquarium with the stand, light, and hood for $125 which seems like a good deal. I am undecided on if i want it to be freshwater or saltwater. I have been researching but there is so much information that i don't know where to begin! What do i need to start a setup and what is the average cost to maintain it? Any suggestions???

I would make your tank a tropical freshwater aquarium. The fish cost less and you can stock your tank well and make it look really nice. You could get like 20 neon tetras and 12 fancy guppies, and also like 7 swordtails and 7 miniature gourami's. These will all go good together and will make your aquarium look wonderful. I think that the average overall cost would be around $215-$250. That is a super deal, and the maintenance won't be nearly as much hard as it would be with a saltwater aquarium. Have fun and hope that I helped!!!

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Silicates - Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community

by badamsios

In aquariums where sandy or other forms of substrate are used, silicate can leach "out" of these compounds, and enter the tank's water very quickly. It usually only takes a few weeks for this to happen (at the maximum). Often it happens much sooner. The latter is especially the case if silica sand is used as the substrate in the aquarium (this is too often the case,unfortunately). Although less common now than a year or so ago, hobbyists were adding "play sand" to their tanks to build up a substrate. Play sand and so-called blasting sand are very high in silicate and should be avoided if you wish to keep silicates low. These silicate compounds then start building up in your tank's water since nothing is removing them, unless you actually take some measures to prevent them from doing so. When they build up to sufficient levels or concentrations, brown algae start to appear in patches first (often on the glass or acrylic panes of the tank). Mind you the patches can be hard, filamentous, slimy and can take on various other forms, depending on which particular diatom is growing in the tank. The real dangerous types are the encrusting diatoms. They often populate the base of corals and grow upwards, pushing the polyp away from the skeleton. Receding of the coral then takes place. This is a real bad situation as, if this continues, the corals will recede more and more and will start to disintegrate, get infected, and you will loose the coral altogether. Many hobbyists are under the impression that using reverse osmosis water or deionized water will solve the problem, and that doing so will remove the silicates and silicic acid from that water. This is, unfortunately, not the case. Such units, even if combined, will remove silicate and silicic acid for a very short period of time only and, then, the silicate and silicic acid will get through the membrane and the resins and will start to build up in the tank. By a short period of time I mean in a matter of...

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